Viewing entries in
Utah

Bryce Canyon National Park

Bryce Canyon National Park

Best time to visit: Year Around

Recommended Hikes: Queen's Garden, Navajo Loop through Wall Street, Peekaboo Loop, the Hat Shop

Ideal For: Hiking, Horseback Riding, Camping, Auto-Touring, Backpacking

Where to stay: Numerous options for RV parks, campgrounds, and hotels just outside the park entrance.

Park Website - Park Map

Useful Info:

  • Dogs - the general rule for dogs in national parks is that they must be leashed and are only allowed on paved areas, which includes parking areas, roads, and front country campgrounds. Dogs are not allowed on park trails, even when leashed.

  • Hiking below the rim in Bryce NP is some of the most enjoyable hiking I have experienced to date. If you are able, I highly recommend venturing down into the canyon to see the hoodoos up close. This provides a much deeper perspective of the landscape than you can achieve from the viewpoints above.

  • The small town of Bryce lies just outside of the park entrance; it has restaurants, grocery stores, and places to stay (hotels, campgrounds, and RV parks).

  • It takes about 30 minutes (one-way) to drive from the park entrance to Rainbow Point at the southern end of the park.

  • A trip to Bryce can be combined with a trip to nearby Zion National Park and Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument.

  • Drinking water is available at the visitor center and at several major viewpoints - bring your water bottles to fill up.

  • Shuttles run during the summer half of the year from "Ruby's Inn and Campground/RV Park" which is just outside the park boundary to all the major viewpoints along the main amphitheater area. Parking can be limited, so using the shuttle can save a lot of hassle. The shuttles do NOT run further south to Natural Bridge or to Rainbow Point - you will need to drive to reach those destinations. There is no charge to use the shuttles - it is included with the park entrance fee.

Bryce Canyon is an otherworldly landscape of densely packed, free-standing rock spires called "hoodoos". The hoodoos run along a ridge that is about 15 miles long, but they are most abundant in a few mile section called the "Bryce Amphitheater" - referred to below as the "main amphitheater". Bryce is a year-round destination, but it gets significant snow during winter.

Must See Attractions:

Viewpoints - there are many great viewpoints along the rim of Bryce Canyon, accessible by car, park shuttle, and walking paths. All the major viewpoints in the main amphitheater are worth seeing, including Sunrise Point, Sunset Point, Inspiration Point, and Bryce Point.

Natural Bridge - this is a large and unique arch that is visible from a viewpoint just off the main park road. It's roughly a 20 minute drive to get here from the visitor center. There is no "below-the-rim" access in this area.

The following attractions are below the canyon rim - seeing them requires visitors to hike down at least 350 vertical feet, and also hike back up afterwards.

Queen's Garden - just beneath Sunrise Point, this is one of two areas in the main amphitheater that feature exceptionally large hoodoos. The Queen's Garden is impressive to witness from both above and below. There is a small hiking detour from the Navajo Loop that leads into the Queen's Garden. Read more about the hike here.

the Queen's Garden, Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah

Wall Street - Wall Street is essentially a slot canyon made of hoodoos. A single hiking path runs right through the heart of it and it's perhaps the biggest attraction in the park. Wall Street is located just below Sunset Point and it can be seen as a part of the Navajo and Peekaboo Loop hikes discussed below. Read more about the hike hereNote - Wall Street is closed when there are freezing temperatures - if you visit in winter, spring, or late fall, Wall Street will likely be closed.

Mossy Cave - There is a cool waterfall outside of the main park area, on a very short hike called “Mossy Cave”. The waterfall was created by people who redirected a creek in the 1800s'. There is also a cave near the waterfall. This area is worth seeing! Read more about it here.

Where to Stay:

There are more options for lodging outside the park boundaries in and around the small town of Bryce, including hotels, RV parks, and private campgrounds. Ruby's Inn is a good option for camping just outside the park and they have showers and wifi. 

There are two campgrounds within the park which can be reserved in advance. The North Campground can be reserved here and the Sunset Campground here - they fill up early so book well in advance if possible.

Hiking in Bryce:

Navajo Loop through Wall Street and the Queen's Garden - If you do one hike in Bryce, this is the one to do. It is a loop hike that connects Sunset and Sunrise Points with a 3 mile trek through the hoodoos. The trail leads through both Wall Street and the Queen's Garden which are both must-see attractions. Read more about this hike on the park's website here.

The famous switchbacks beneath "Thor's Hammer" on the Navajo Loop hike in Bryce Canyon.

Peakaboo Loop - Similar to Navajo Loop but longer - this trail leads down from Bryce Point on the south side of the main amphitheater and meets up with Navajo Loop at the base of the amphitheater.  Bryce Point has a higher elevation starting point, so climbing out is more difficult than Navajo Loop. Read more about the Peekaboo Loop hike here.

My favorite hike to do in Bryce is to combine the above two loops into a single "through" hike. If you start at Bryce Point, you can hike down to the amphitheater floor on Peekaboo Loop, and then turn left onto the Navajo Loop to see Wall Street. There are steep switchbacks that ascend from the other side of Wall Street up to the rim, but instead of taking those up, backtrack in the other direction on Navajo Loop. This will bring you along the valley floor to the Queen's Garden, which you can explore before making your final ascent out of the amphitheater at Sunrise Point. Bryce Point has a significantly higher elevation than Sunrise Point, so start the hike at Bryce Point for an easier climb out of the amphitheater. Make sure the shuttles are running before you do this hike! 

The rim trail is another great hike and it's a perfect option if you don't want to hike down into the canyon. The trail runs from Bryce point to Sunrise point, and then further north up to Fairyland Point from there. The trail has a slight decline from south to north, so it's best to park at Sunrise Point and then take the shuttle over to Bryce Point. From there, the walk along the rim back to your car will be mostly downhill.

The Hat Shop - If you want to escape some of the crowds in the main amphitheater, consider the hike to the “Hat Shop”. Its a few miles down the “Under the Rim Trail” which begins at Bryce Point. This is a good option if you have done all the hikes in the main amphitheater and are looking for something new. Read more about it here.

Off the Beaten Track:

Fairyland Canyon sits on the northern end of the park and is always much less crowded than the main amphitheater. There is a trail that descends from Fairyland into the valley and eventually runs into Navajo Loop, passing another natural bridge in the park called "Tower Bridge". The road out to Fairyland is not serviced by the shuttle system and is closed during winter. Read more about the Fairyland hike here.

Rainbow Point is at the very southern end of the park and it will also usually be less crowded than the main amphitheater. There are several hiking tails that descend below the rim from here, including the Under the Rim Trail which runs all the way to Bryce Point. This trail is cool but not nearly as scenic as the trails in the main amphitheater.

Canyonlands National Park

Canyonlands National Park

Best time to visit: Year Around

Recommended Hikes: Elephant Canyon, Mesa Arch, Grand View Point, Druid Arch, the Joint Trail

Ideal For: Hiking, Backpacking, Auto-Touring, Camping, Off-Road Motor Sports 

Where to stay: Moab

Park Website - Park Map

Useful Info:

  • Dogs - the general rule for dogs in national parks is that they must be leashed and are only allowed on paved areas, which includes parking areas, roads, and front country campgrounds. Dogs are not allowed on park trails, even when leashed.

  • Canyonlands exists in a very fragile desert ecosystem. It is crucial to stay on hiking paths and not wander off trail as delicate, biological soil crust covers the desert floor. These living structures are not dirt! They can take decades to form and they play an important role in the ecosystem. Please don't step on them!

  • The "Needles" is better for hiking, the "Island in the Sky" is better for viewpoints/auto-touring. There are exceptions, but this is a good rule of thumb.

  • It takes a long time to drive from one district to another. DO NOT try to see both the "Island in the Sky" and the "Needles" in the same day, choose one or the other or split them into at least two separate days.

  • The "Maze" is the most remote district - driving here from Moab will take 5+ hours, one-way. There is no drinking water available and it's mostly only accessible to high-clearance, 4WD vehicles. Read more about the Maze on the park's website here.

  • A trip to Canyonlands can be combined with a trip to nearby Arches National Park. Moab is a perfect location to stay to be able to see the "Needles", the "Island in the Sky", and Arches.

  • Drinking water is available at the visitor centers in the "Island in the Sky" and the "Needles", but not at trail-heads. Bring your water bottle to fill up.

  • There is no shuttle service at Canyonlands.

Canyonlands is a massive, rugged landscape. It is one of the most underrated national parks in the country and you should plan at least two full days to see it. At it's heart is the confluence of the Colorado River and the Green River, which come together in a "Y" shape that divides the park into three districts: the Island in the Sky, the Needles, and the Maze. The "Island in the Sky" and the "Needles" districts are both easily accessible from Moab but require up to an hour of driving to reach. The "Maze" is not easily accessible from Moab - it is remote and requires advanced planning, high-clearance 4WD, and self reliance to visit. Spring and fall offer the most pleasant weather, but Canyonlands can be enjoyed year around. Expect some snow during winter months.

Must See Attractions:

Grand View Point - Located in the "Island in the Sky" District, Grand View Point is a must-see for every visitor. The tip of the plateau offers a 270-degree view of the vast canyons below. It's one of the best views in Utah! Read more about reaching Grand View Point here.

Mesa Arch - A popular photography spot and another must-see in the "Island in the Sky". The view of the arch faces east so this is a popular photography spot during sunrise. Its a half-mile round-trip hike from the parking area. Read more about Mesa Arch here.

Elephant Canyon - The premier attraction of the Needles District. Elephant Canyon is a great place to see the "Needles" up close. Seeing Elephant Canyon requires 5 miles of hiking at a minimum, so bring plenty of food and water. Outstanding day hikes to Druid Arch and the Joint Trail both begin at the Elephant Hill trailhead.

Where to Stay:

Moab. It's a small town but it caters to the tourist crowd looking to explore Canyonlands and Arches. There are hotels, campgrounds, and RV parks here, as well as stores, restaurants/bars, and places to book tours and adventure activities/off-road vehicles. If you want to do a lot of hiking in the "Needles" however, the best option is to camp in the district to avoid the long drive from Moab.

Drive times from Moab to national park entrances are: 40 minutes to the "Island in the Sky", 90 minutes to the "Needles", and 10 minutes to Arches National Park. 

There are campgrounds in each district of the park - they are first-come, first-served, but some of the sites in the "Needles" campground can be reserved online in advance here. According to the park website, the campgrounds fill up early every single day during spring and fall. 

There is a small private campground just outside the "Needles" entrance which is a good option if the campground in the park is full. Their website is here.

Hiking in Canyonlands:

Needles District

Elephant Canyon - If you have just one day in the "Needles" district, see Elephant Canyon. It requires a hike into the heart of the needles rock formations, and there is a network of trails to choose from once you get there. The trailhead is called "Elephant Hill" and it can be reached via well-maintained dirt road. There is a pit toilet at the Elephant Hill trailhead, but no water.

There are two primary options in Elephant Canyon that are both world-class hikes. One goes to Druid Arch and the other goes to the Joint Trail.

Druid Arch is massive - much larger than any arch you will find in nearby Arches National Park. The arch is surrounded by an amphitheater of sandstone, making this area a fantastic endpoint to the hike. There are a few easy rock scrambles and a short ladder you have to climb to see the arch. Read more about this hike here.

The Joint Trail is a grid of cracks in the rock that begins as a slot canyon and then becomes a cavernous arena of giant boulders. This is one of the coolest endpoints to a hike I have seen to date, and the trail to get here crosses through Chesler Park which is awesome in its own right. Read more about the hike here.

If you are in excellent shape and you carry a lot of water, you might be able to see both Druid Arch and the Joint Trail in a single, 14-mile loop hike. I personally prefer the Joint Trail, but they are both truly incredible. You will not be disappointed either way. 

Another popular hike in the Needles District runs out to the confluence of the Colorado and Green Rivers - I haven't done this one so I can't comment on it, but you can read more about here.

Island in the Sky District

Upheaval Dome - Another Island in the Sky hike, but one that can safely be skipped in favor of any of the above. Scientist speculate that the Upheaval Dome was formed by a meteor impact, although this theory is contested. Read more about the hike here.

There are a few options to hike down into the canyon from the "Island in the Sky". From what I have read, the trails are pretty steep and rugged with no shade or water, but still worth doing. 

Jeep Trails

Canyonlands has many miles of rugged dirt roads which require 4WD, high-clearance vehicles to access. These roads all require permits from Recreation.gov or the visitor centers. The most famous is the “White Rim Road” which runs 100 miles around the Island in the Sky. The Needles and Maze also have their own scenic roads. Note, ATVs and UTVs are not allowed on these roads.

Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument

Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument

Permits are required for all overnight trips. Human Waste must be packed out throughout the Monument.

Best time to visit: Year Around

Ideal For: Hiking and backpacking

Where to stay: Town of Escalante

Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument is one of my personal favorite places in the country. Make no mistake - the attractions here are "national park" worthy, but the infrastructure is not. Almost all attractions can only be accessed via dirt roads. Spring and early summer have the best weather and the least amount of rain. Monsoon season is late summer which brings occasional heavy rainstorms. Winters are cold and summers are hot.

Useful Info:

  • Dogs - the general rule for dogs in national monuments is that they must be leashed and are only allowed on paved areas, which includes parking areas, roads, and front country campgrounds. Dogs are not allowed on monument trails, even when leashed.

  • The most common attractions here are slot canyons. They are really cool but potentially dangerous during rainstorms.

  • Slot canyons often have pools of standing water in them. Wear shoes that you are ready and willing to get wet.

  • Some basic climbing abilities and good physical fitness/upper body strength is needed in some of the slot canyons. There are sometimes obstacles to climb over or under and narrow sections to squeeze through.

  • Most of the dirt roads in the region are accessible to all types of vehicles, but they may become impassable after rain or snow.

  • There are pit toilets along the Hole-in-the-Rock Road at the Devils Garden and Peek a Boo Slot trailhead.

Attractions:

Highway 12 - One of the prettiest drives in the country... It runs between Bryce and Capitol Reef National Parks and it gives you a chance to see all of the Grand Staircase. The stretch of road between the towns of Escalante and Boulder is especially cool as it climbs up a narrow ridge that has huge dropoffs to canyons below. There are many places to pull over and take photos along the road.

Coyote Gulch - Best seen with at least one night of backcountry camping, or preferably two. As of right now, there is no lottery for backpacking permits. Permits can be obtained in person at the Escalante visitor center, and note that all human waste must be packed out. Reaching the trailhead requires about 30 miles of dirt road driving down "Hole in the Rock Road" which branches off from Highway 12 near the town of Escalante. There are a few trailheads that you can park at - I have used the "Hurricane Wash" trailhead which is the most common and easiest to reach in a car. The entire gulch is mind-blowing with towering walls that come way out over the creek below. Read more about Coyote Gulch here.

Peek-a-boo and Spooky Slot Canyons - These two are the most famous slot canyons in the region. They can be seen together on a loop hike or separately as an out-and-back. Peek-a-boo is famous for it's small overhead arches and Spooky is really dark and narrow for hundreds of meters. There are sections of both slot canyons that are really narrow, requiring you to walk through them sideways while carrying any bags in your outstretched arms.

The entrance to Peak-a-boo requires a scramble up a 10-foot high rock face, and there are sometimes pools of water at the entrance so wear shoes that can get wet. Spooky Gulch is much longer than Peak-a-boo and it's more narrow. There is a 7-foot boulder in Spooky which needs to be down-climbed to complete the loop. Both slot canyons can get crowded, so try to arrive as early in the morning as possible to beat the crowds. For more information on the hike and finding the trailhead, click here.

Zebra and Tunnel Slot Canyons - Zebra is the prettiest slot canyon in the region. It’s quite short but features striped patterns on its walls which are really cool. Nearby Tunnel Slot has a cool rock roof, but its not as spectacular as Zebra. Both slots often have deep water, so wear shoes and clothes that can get wet. The trailhead is off of the "Hole in the Rock" road near the town of Escalante. For more info on the hike and finding the trailhead, click here.

Devils Garden - This area has colorful hoodoos and small arches that you can climb around and explore. It's a fun spot for all ages and a great option if the slot canyons seem a little too intense. The parking area is right next to the hoodoos. There is also a pit toilet here - the only one in the area. Devil’s Garden is 100% worth stopping at, and can be seen in as little as 20 minutes. The trailhead is off of the "Hole in the Rock" road near the town of Escalante. For more info on the hike and finding the trailhead click here.

Little Death Hollow - Little Death Hollow is a really impressive canyon. It starts out wide with very tall walls before converging to a single file slot canyon that goes on for miles. It’s harder to reach than the others but the lack of crowds make it worth the effort. This is also a great spot for backpacking. The hike is off of the "Burr Trail" road accessed from the town of Boulder, UT. Read more about it here.

Calf Creek Falls - This a cool waterfall and a nice hike. The trailhead is well-marked off of Highway 12, in between the towns of Boulder and Escalante. The hike is about 6 miles roundtrip with the endpoint at Lower Calf Creek Falls cascading into a green pool. The waterfall can be a nice place to swim for kids and adults during summer. Read more about it here. There is also an Upper Calf Creek Falls which is a separate hike - it’s pretty cool but Lower Calf Creek Falls in the better option.

Cosmic Ashtray - Yet another great option and well worth the hike. The dirt road is mostly passable for all vehicles, but small cars may consider parking before the sand gets too deep, and hiking on the last bit of road. The Cosmic Ashtray isn’t easy to find, so it’s best to use a GPS enabled hiking map like AllTrails to find it. Read more about the hike here.

Reflection Canyon - A stunning viewpoint on Lake Powell that has become pretty famous in recent years. Reflection Canyon is remote and the hike is long, hot, and dry. Reflection Canyon is really hard to find, so use a GPS enabled hiking map like AllTrails and consult it often while hiking. The dirt road to get here gets really rough towards the end, so it’s best to have an off-road capable vehicle. I don’t recommend this drive for small cars. I think Reflection Canyon is best seen with one night of backcountry camping (permit required), but a very fit person who starts the hike at dawn could probably make it a day-hike. Read more about Reflection Canyon here.

Hole in the Rock - If you drive all the way to the end of Hole-in-the-Rock road, you will reach this giant canyon that runs down into Lake Powell. It’s a fun hike down to the lake if you have the time, but the road is very rough to get here. Read more about it here.

Where to Stay:

The small town of Escalante is the best place to set up base camp for exploring the region. Most of the attractions mentioned above are on the "Hole in the Rock" road which begins right near the town of Escalante. There are a few rustic hotels in town, and also a few campground/RV Parks and places to buy food and supplies. From here, most attractions mentioned above can be reached with an hours drive or less. 

Zion National Park

Zion National Park

Best time to visit: Year Around

Recommended Hikes: Angel's Landing, the Narrows, the Subway, Kanarra Falls (Note the East Rim Trail is closed due to rockfall. Observation Point can be reached via the East Mesa Trail)

Ideal For: Hiking, Backpacking, Camping, Canyoneering, Rock Climbing, Biking

Where to stay: Campgrounds in or near the park, towns of Springdale or Hurricane, UT

Park Website - Park Map

Useful Info:

  • Zion is open 24/7/365, and no reservations are currently required.

  • Dogs - the general rule for dogs in national parks is that they must be leashed and are only allowed on paved areas, which includes parking areas, roads, and front country campgrounds. In Zion, pets are allowed on the Pa’rus Trail, which is paved, but not on any other park trails.

  • Zion is less than a 3 hours drive from Las Vegas, which is the nearest major airport.

  • Beginning April 1, 2022, hiking Angel’s Landing will require a permit. See more info from the park website here.

  • The main Zion canyon is accessible via shuttle ONLY for most of the year. You can also enter on foot or on a bicycle.

  • Flash floods are lethal in all of Zion's slot canyons - the park monitors storms and closes the Narrows when there is flash flood potential. Check at the visitor center for the latest information about potential flash floods.

  • You can rent water shoes, hiking sticks, and bikes at stores just outside the park's south entrance. E-Biking the canyon is a great experience.

  • Highway 9, which runs from the south entrance to the east entrance of the park, goes through a low clearance tunnel. Trailers and RVs require escort which is available throughout the day, but not at night. Read more about it here.

  • Drinking water is available at the visitor center and other park buildings.

Zion is the most popular national park in Utah. The main canyon is the highlight of the park - towering sandstone cliffs that converge to form a massive slot canyon known as "the Narrows". Zion is a year-around destination and it’s usually crowded, especially on weekends. Winters are cold and summers are hot.

Must-See Attractions:

The entire main canyon is a must-see. All the shuttle stops are cool and worth jumping off at if you have time.

Angel's Landing - one of many famous rock formations in the main canyon. The monolith is best observed from shuttle stops 7 and 8 on the canyon floor. The hike to the summit of Angel’s Landing is outstanding - read more about it in the hiking section below.

the Narrows - a giant slot canyon more than 10 miles long, with sections that are just 30 feet wide and 1,000 feet high. Hiking up the river is the only way to see the Narrows - read more about it in the hiking section below.

Shuttle Stop 8 - the "Big Bend" shuttle stop offers views of vertical sandstone cliffs in every direction. There is a short trail between shuttle stops 8 and 7 that is incredibly beautiful and tranquil. This is the best place to see Angel's Landing and the Great White Throne from the canyon floor. 

Zion High-Country - Outside of the main canyon, the landscape features colorful buttes and mesas. These make for a great scenic drive on Highway 9, and potential for bighorn sheep sightings. Attractions in this area include Checkerboard Mesa, the Canyon Overlook Trail, and the East Rim Trail.

Where to Stay:

There are two campgrounds in the park, the "Watchman" campground can be reserved online in advance here. The "South" campground is available 2 weeks in advance online here. Both campgrounds are always in high demand.

There are private campgrounds just outside the park's southern and eastern boundaries. These are great options if the Watchman and the South campgrounds are full. 

There are hotel and BNB options in Springdale and Hurricane. Springdale is a tiny town just outside the park's southern boundary - the options here are nicer but more expensive. Hurricane is a larger town about 30 miles from the parks south entrance that has budget hotels.

Hiking in Zion:

Angel's Landing - The must-do hike in Zion. Angel's Landing is a challenging hike with a steep summit ascent, assisted by chains bolted to the rock for support. This hike is very crowded, especially on the steep sections near the summit. Get an early start to avoid the traffic jams! Angel’s Landing now requires a permit to hike which can be reserved here. Read more about the hike here.

the Narrows - The crown-jewel of Zion National Park. The Narrows are closed whenever the Virgin River is flowing at 150 cubic feet per second (click here for current water-flow levels). This happens throughout the spring months as winter snow melts off and occasionally in summer, fall, and winter during major rain storms. Fall and winter are great times to hike the Narrows with reduced crowds. Tough, water-friendly shoes are crucial and hiking poles or a walking stick are really helpful. You can rent all Narrows gear at stores near the park entrance.

Observation Point - This is a really popular hike to a viewpoint high above Angel's Landing. The hike is long for a single viewpoint, but there is some cool scenery on the way, especially near Echo Canyon. Due to a recent rockfall, observation Point is no longer accessible from the canyon floor. Hikers can still reach it from the Stave and East Mesa Trailheads.

the Subway - Day-hikers can access the lowest tier of the Subway with a long hike for which permits are required (reserve online here). Permits are available for the spring through fall months but they are very limited. Do not attempt this hike with shoes that can't get wet - hiking in the creek is often the easiest route. Read more about the hike here.

Zion High Country - Theres another cool canyon that runs along the park road East of the tunnel. It’s worth a hike if you are unable to get into the main canyon shuttles. Parking is along the roadside at various points.

Kanarra Falls - a really cool slot canyon with a photogenic waterfall. Kanarra Falls is outside the Zion park boundaries but its close to the Kolob Canyons section of the park. You can see Kanarra Falls and catch the Kolobs for sunset in a single day. The hike is partially in a creek so bring shoes that can get wet. Read more about the hike and finding the trailhead here. Beginning 2019, a permit is required to hike Kanarra Falls. Click here for more permit info.