Viewing entries in
Arizona

Grand Canyon National Park

Grand Canyon National Park

The Grand Canyon can be visited from north or south of the Colorado River. The south rim is more popular and it has many more viewpoints than the north rim. The north rim closes during winter and it's significantly less developed, but it's also much less crowded and many visitors prefer it over the south rim. 

Below are my recommendations for both - scroll halfway down to find the north rim section

South Rim

Best time to visit: Year Around 

Recommended Hikes: Bright Angel Trail, South Kaibab Trail, Rim Walk

Ideal For: Hiking, Camping, Biking, Auto-Touring

Where to stay: Campgrounds and rustic hotels in the park and just outside the park boundary

Park Website - Park Map

Useful Info:

  • Dogs - the general rule for dogs in national parks is that they must be leashed and are only allowed on paved areas, which includes parking areas, roads, and front country campgrounds. Dogs are not allowed on park trails, even when leashed.

  • The shuttle system at the south rim is extensive and necessary to use when the park is crowded. It's best to lock down a parking spot in the Village early in the day and then use the shuttles to get around. Parking lots everywhere can be full throughout the day, so avoid moving your car once you park. There is no charge to use the shuttles.

  • There is no shuttle service east of Yaki Point. This part of the canyon has exceptional viewpoints that are very different from what is seen at western Hermit's Rest. You should be able to find parking at the viewpoints out here, even during peak season. It takes about 40 minutes to drive from the main village to the Desert View Watchtower, one-way.

  • Hiking into the canyon is doable at the south rim. Prepare for a significant increase in temperature as you climb down into the canyon and a punishing climb out. Hikers can hike to the river from the Bright Angel and South Kaibab trailheads, but the park encourages people not to hike all the way down and back out in a single day. Read more about these routes in the hiking section below.

  • The Grand Canyon Village is huge. It has several museums and hotels, a post-office, a large general store, and multiple places to eat. There are gas stations outside the park's southern gate and at the Desert View Watchtower.

  • You can rent bikes in the Grand Canyon Village. Biking is a good way to cover more ground and escape the crowds.

  • Drinking water is available throughout the Village and at Hermit's Rest and Desert View Watchtower. Bring your water bottle to fill up.

The Grand Canyon south rim is one of the most popular national parks in the country and it is a year around destination. Summer months are very hot and winter months are very cold with snow, but the gates are open all year long. Spring and fall are ideal for the most comfortable weather. Be prepared for crowds at the south rim if visiting on a weekend or around holidays.

Must See Attractions:

The Grand Canyon south rim is a park of viewpoints, all of which are just a short walk from parking areas or shuttle stops. Don't hesitate to pull the car over at any of them - they are all worth seeing.

There are two primary hiking trails that descend into the canyon from the south rim. Both can be challenging hikes as they have big elevation gains when hiking out. Most visitors can enjoy the entire south rim without hiking down into the canyon.

Desert View Watchtower (May be closed due to Covid) - a beautiful structure designed by architect Mary Colter in 1932. The watchtower is located at the furthest east viewpoint on the south rim. Visitors can go inside and climb the tower up three levels for an even better view of the surrounding landscape. It takes about 40 minutes to drive to the watchtower from the main village.

Rim Walk - There is a walking and biking path along most of the south rim, running from one viewpoint to the next. Sections of it are very crowded, especially near the Village and visitor centers, but the further out you go, the less crowded it will be. The section that runs out to Yaki Point from the visitor center is an especially great option for walking or biking.

Hermit's Rest (Building may be closed due to Covid) - this is the furthest west viewpoint, and it features another small historic building designed by Mary Colter called Hermit's Rest. There is a small store here where you can buy food and other products, There are 9 official viewpoints/shuttle stops between Hermit's Rest and the village. The round-trip shuttle route takes about 80 minutes without getting off at any stops. During the winter, the road is opened to private vehicles, but may also be closed for snow. The road is only accessible via shuttle during spring, summer, and fall.

Where to Stay:

There are two campgrounds at the south rim. Mather Campground is located right in the village and it can be reserved online in advance here. The other is a first-come-first-served campground near the Watchtower (Desert View Campground) which is closed during winter months. 

There are several hotels/lodges in the village - some of them are right near the rim and some rooms will even have views of the canyon. Book them online here.

Hiking at the South Rim

Rim Walk - This is the most enjoyable hike at the south rim, and it can be as short or as long as you please. There are constant views of the canyon with limited elevation change and some shade from trees. It runs along most of the rim, from Hermit's Rest all the way down to Yaki Point. The sections of this trail near Grand Canyon Village are very crowded but the further you walk from there, the fewer people there will be. Biking along this route is a great way to cover more ground in less time. 

Bright Angel Trail - The most popular route to go down into the canyon. This trail goes all the way to the Colorado River (and continues on to the north rim), and also forks off to a viewpoint called Plateau Point which overlooks the river. The Bright Angel Trail descends quickly and steeply into the canyon before it starts to move out towards the river, so you have to invest a lot of vertical feet right away. There is drinking water available at three rest-stops along this trail. Read more about the hike here.

South Kaibab Trail - The other major hiking trail into the canyon which meets up with the Bright Angel Trail at the Colorado River. This trail runs along a butte which extends way out into the canyon before descending, making it quite different than the Bright Angel Trail. I personally think the views offered on the South Kaibab Trail are better than the Bright Angel Trail. However, there is NO WATER available along this route. The trailhead is near Yaki Point, which can only be reached via shuttle. Read more about the hike here

 

North Rim

Best time to visit: Summer (North Rim is closed winters)

Recommended Hikes: Widforss Trail, North Kaibab Trail, Cape Royal/Angel's Window

Ideal For: Hiking, Camping, Auto-Touring, Escaping the crowds of the south rim

Where to stay: Cabins at the Grand Canyon Lodge or the North Rim Campground

Park Website - Park Map

Useful Info:

  • Dogs - the general rule for dogs in national parks is that they must be leashed and are only allowed on paved areas, which includes parking areas, roads, and front country campgrounds. Dogs are not allowed on park trails, even when leashed.

  • The north rim is a summer park - park services start to shut down in mid-October, but the gates remain open to day visitors until the first major snow closes the road, or until December 1. Everything starts to open up again in mid-May the following year.

  • If you have your heart set on hiking down to the Colorado River - the north rim is not the place to do it. You can hike down into the canyon from the north rim, but the walk to the river is 8 miles longer than it would be from the south rim.

  • A trip to the north rim can be combined with a trip to nearby Zion National Park. The city of Page, AZ is worth visiting as well - home to Horseshoe Bend and Antelope Canyon, both of which can be seen in a single, long day trip. Vermillion Cliffs National Monument is right near the north rim as well.

  • There is a general store and gas station near the campground, and food/drinks available at the Lodge (these start to close mid-October)

  • Drinking water is available at the campground and at the lodge and visitor center. Eastern viewpoints like Point Imperial and Cape Royal do not have drinking water available, so fill up before heading out that direction.

  • There is no shuttle service at the north rim.

The north rim of the Grand Canyon feels completely different than the south rim. It is 1,000 feet higher in elevation and the rim is three times further away from the Colorado River. It feels like much more of a landscape than a viewpoint; all the rock formations visible in the distance from the south rim are up close and personal at the north rim. The crowds are significantly smaller at the north rim compared to the south rim. Due to an average of 12 feet of snow per year, the north rim is closed during winter, usually opening for the season in May of each year. 

Must See Attractions:

Grand Canyon Lodge - I don't normally recommend man-made attractions, but this is a must-see. It is a beautiful building with a restaurant, bar, and seating right on the rim, overlooking the canyon. This is a great place to sit and relax at any time of day. Bright Angel Point is a quarter-mile walk from here.

Cape Royal - the furthest point you can drive to at the North Rim. From the parking lot, it's a short and flat walk out to Cape Royal and Angel's Window viewpoints. Look for the south rim's Desert View Watchtower on the horizon across the canyon.

Point Imperial - a nice viewpoint of the eastern canyon - this is a good place to be during sunset, although the sun will be setting behind you. The colors in the canyon are best after the sun is no longer visible but before it gets too dark. 

Bright Angel Point - My favorite viewpoint on the North Rim is Bright Angel Point which is just about a quarter mile’s hike from the Lodge. The point is at the end of a peninsula which reaches out into the canyon above the North Kaibab Trail. This is a great place to be for sunrise or sunset.

Where to Stay:

The best options are in the park at either the North Rim Campground or the Grand Canyon Lodge/cabins. Both are right near the rim, but the lodge and cabins are pricey.  There is camping and small hotels just outside of the park boundary and further up the road in the small town of Jacob Lake.

Hiking at the North Rim:

Widforss Point - This is a really enjoyable hike with a great endpoint - it's about 10 miles round trip and offers good chances to see wildlife and unique views of the canyon. Read more about this hike here.

North Kaibab Trail - This is the one route from the north rim than descends into the canyon. Day hiking to the river is not possible from the north rim, but it can be be done as an overnight backpacking trip. There are some cool landmarks you can reach day hiking on this trail, including the Supai Tunnel and the Redwall Bridge. Beware - It's easy to underestimate the hike out compared to the hike down. The trail is hot and has a steady incline. Read more about the hike here.

Cape Final Trail - A nice mid range hike at about 4 miles round trip; the end point is a great view but it's similar to the views at Point Imperial and Roosevelt Point, which can both be reached in a car. I recommend Widforss Point over Cape Final if you are debating between the two. Read more about Cape Final here.

Uncle Jim Trail - This is a nice hike with a cool viewpoint of the North Kaibab Trail. Most of the hike runs through forest however so there aren’t a ton of canyon views besides the one major viewpoint at the halfway point of the loop. Read more about this hike here.

All of the north rim hiking routes can be seen in detail on the North Rim park map link above.

Supai

Supai

See the latest information at the official Supai visitors website www.havasupaireservations.com

Best time to visit: Spring through Fall

Ideal For: Hiking, Swimming, and Camping

Where to stay: Supai Campground

Website - Camping Reservations

The oasis of Supai is one of the country’s most spectacular natural destinations. Supai itself is a tiny, Native American town in the canyon - the ancestral and current home of the Havasupai Tribe. A mile south of the town is a system of turquoise waterfalls which are famous the world-over. Advanced reservations are required - read more about making a reservation in the Useful Info section below.

Must See Attractions:

Navajo Falls - The first waterfall that you reach - there is an Upper and Lower Navajo Falls which are both really cool with intricate travertine formations. This is a great place to swim.

Havasu Falls - The most famous waterfall in the group, and another popular place to swim. The hiking path descends from the top of Havasu Falls and circles around to it's base.

Mooney Falls - The tallest and most impressive waterfall in the group. The hike down to the base of Mooney Falls is pretty treacherous and not for those with a fear of heights. Mooney can also be enjoyed from above.

Beaver Falls - The last major waterfall - about 3 miles down canyon from Mooney Falls. The hike to get here crosses the creek multiple times, so wear shoes that can get wet. There are a few ladders in the area surrounding Beaver Falls and also a famous cavern underneath the water that you can swim into.

Colorado River Confluence - Fit hikers can reach the Colorado River where the turquoise blue Supai Creek mixes with the Colorado. The hike is long (16 miles roundtrip) and probably not worth it for most visitors, but the endpoint at the Colorado is really spectacular. Read more about it in the hiking section below.

Useful Info:

  • Advanced camping reservations can be made online here. 2019 campsites went on sale February 1st and are now sold out for the year.

  • All campsites are reserved in 3-night blocks. Weeknights are $100 per night per visitor, and weekends are $125 per night per visitor.

  • You must obtain an advance reservation to visit Supai. When you arrive, you will receive a wristband and a tag for your tent. Day hiking down to Supai from the canyon rim is not allowed - you are required to stay the night if you hike down and you must have a reservation as it is always at capacity.

  • All reservations are non-refundable and non-transferrable.

  • You can reach the Supai camping reservation office at (928) 448-2180. You can reach the Supai Lodge reservation office at (928) 448-2111.

  • To reach the waterfalls, you will need to hike about 10 miles, one-way into the Grand Canyon. The hike is hot and strenuous, especially when climbing out.

  • There is a helicopter service - it is first-come-first-served and runs a few days a week. Read more about it here.

  • There is drinking water available for free in the campground and in Supai, and food for purchase at a small cafeteria and convenience store in Supai.

Rain and Flash Flood Potential

There are famous photos of Supai during floods where the waterfalls are brown instead of turquoise. I visited during a moderate rainstorm and can report that the turquoise water was not affected. However, substantial storms do occasionally turn the water brown, and even flood the campground. These happen most often during monsoon season (Mid-June to Mid-September).

Where to Stay:

The campground is incredible. There is a designated stretch of canyon between Havasu Falls and Mooney Falls where you can camp wherever you see fit. Many people string a hammock between two trees, or find secluded corners along the creek. You can camp right next to the brink of Mooney Falls if you dare.

Fires are not allowed, and the Supai town is roughly a mile’s hike away. There is drinking water and a food stand with limited hours near the campground.

There is also a very small and rustic hotel in Supai which can be reserved at 928-448-2111.

Hiking in Supai:

The hiking route simply follows Havasu Creek up or down the canyon - from Navajo Falls all the way down to the Colorado River. The trail crosses the creek many times below Mooney Falls, so if you want to hike to Beaver Falls or the confluence, wear shoes that can get wet.

The descent to the base of Mooney Falls is treacherous. There are steep steps and two ladders to navigate, with chains to hold onto while climbing. This section is always wet from the mist coming off Mooney Falls. It can get crowded and sometimes traffic jams form.

After descending Mooney Falls, the hike to reach Beaver Falls is about 3 miles one-way. There are four major creek crossings where you are best off having shoes. Walking barefoot in the creek is possible but there are painful rocks to step on.

Hiking to the confluence with the Colorado River is about 5 miles beyond Beaver Falls (16 miles roundtrip). The hike is picturesque but there aren’t any major waterfalls beyond Beaver. The confluence with the Colorado River is a spectacular endpoint for the hike. There is a cool slot canyon that Supai Creek runs through before it disappears into the brown water of the Colorado.

Vermilion Cliffs National Monument

Vermilion Cliffs National Monument

Navajo Nation is partially open to tourism. This includes Monument Valley and Antelope Canyon, which are currently open, but subject to change. Masks are required throughout Navajo Nation. See more info here.

Best time to visit: Year-around

Ideal For: Hiking and backpacking

Where to stay: Page, AZ

Vermilion Cliffs National Monument is located north of the Grand Canyon, on the border of Arizona and Utah. It’s a remote wilderness landscape with no services, and it’s mostly accessible via dirt roads and long hiking routes. The most famous attractions here are the Wave, Paria Canyon, and Buckskin Gulch - all are spectacular. Plan for at least 3 full days to see everything discussed below. 

Useful Info:

  • Dogs - the general rule for dogs in national monuments is that they must be leashed and are only allowed on paved areas, which includes parking areas, roads, and front country campgrounds. Dogs are not allowed on monument trails, even when leashed.

  • All permit related information and lotteries can be found here.

  • There are a few huge slot canyons that you can explore in the Vermilion Cliffs. They are potentially dangerous during rainstorms. Keep a close eye on the weather across the entire region.

  • GPS devices do not work in Paria Canyon and Buckskin Gulch due to the high rock walls.

  • Most of the dirt roads in the region are accessible to passenger cars, but they may become un-passable when wet. This is especially true for the road which runs to the Wave Trailhead.

Attractions:

the Wave - The permit you need to apply for is called "Coyote Buttes North" - click here for the permit application website. 64 permits are given out online four months in advance, and another 16 permits are given out the day before with a separate online lottery. You must be physically in the area of Kanab or Page to apply for the day-before lottery. Refer here for more detailed information. The odds of winning a permit are extremely low, but if you are lucky to get one, you will receive a placard for your vehicle and a map with photos that show how to find the Wave.

Paria Canyon - This huge slot canyon is just as impressive as Zion's Narrows with a fraction of the crowds. You can obtain a permit to spend the night in Paria Canyon here. Overnight permits are limited to 20 visitors per night, but day permits have no limit. A popular endpoint for seing Paria Canyon is its confluence with Buckskin Gulch, which joins up with Paria about 7 miles from the "Whitehouse Trailhead". There are also longer backpacking trips into Paria Canyon which eventually runs into the Colorado River at Marble Canyon, AZ. The entire hike is in the Paria River, so wear shoes that can get wet and bring hiking poles for added stability.

Buckskin Gulch - The granddaddy of all slot canyons. Day-hikers can see Buckskin from either the "Wirepass Trailhead" which is the upper mouth of the slot, or from the "Whitehouse Trailhead" which runs through Paria Canyon and is essentially the lower mouth of the slot. Wirepass is a much shorter hike and doesn’t require getting wet, but the mud in this area can be cumbersome. A popular backpacking trip is to start at either Wirepass or Whitehouse and hike through Buckskin and Paria as a through hike. Read more about it here.

Horseshoe Bend - My personal favorite viewpoint in the world. Horseshoe Bend is a must-see if you are in the area. The Park Service recently instituted a $10 entry fee for Horseshoe Bend which was needed and worth paying. Reaching the viewpoint requires a 2 mile roundtrip hike. Horseshoe Bend is extremely popular and you can expect a crowd, all day, every day.

Antelope Canyon - Arguably the prettiest slot canyon in the world. There is an Upper and a Lower Antelope Canyon, both are Navajo Tribal Parks - you must be on an official Navajo Guided tour to see them. There are numerous tour companies which can all be found on google. If you are a photographer, book one of the photography tours that allow tripods. Mid-day tours are the best for seeing the iconic beams of sunlight that shine down into the slot.

White Pocket - White pocket is similar in beauty to the Wave but much bigger and doesn’t require a permit. The road to reach White Pocket is made of deep sand and will require high-clearance, 4WD to navigate. You can also go through a tour company in Page, AZ if you don’t have a vehicle.

Lake Powell - If you are a watersports fan, Lake Powell is a world-class boating destination. Much of the lake features vertical sandstone walls rising out of the water. You can explore these canyons at will if you have or rent a boat. You can also book one of the tour cruises which run daily to various points of interest.

Lee’s Ferry/Marble Canyon - This is a less crowded and very scenic area of the Colorado River, down-stream from the Glen Canyon Dam. Cathedral Wash is great day-hike here that descends through an impressive limestone canyon. The hike ends at the Colorado River and requires some moderate scrambling which is doable for most visitors. Read more about the Cathedral Wash hike here. Another great hike in the area is the Spencer Trail which climbs high above the river below. Read more about the Spencer Trail here.

Alstrom Point - This is an incredible viewpoint above Lake Powell and a great place to camp out for a night. It’s not easy to get to with a pretty rough dirt road, but if you have a 4WD vehicle or are willing to hike the last few miles, Alstrom Point is a very rewarding destination. Read more about it here.

Where to Stay:

Page, AZ is about an hours drive to the Paria, Buckskin, and Wave trailheads. There are no other developed areas in the region.

The "Wahweap Campground" is on the shores of Lake Powell, right next to Page, AZ. There are showers and wifi at this campground. Their website is here. Several other private RV parks are located in the city of Page.